PREPARATION OF TIN WARE... OLD AND NEW

Painting on tin ware does have its rewards. The end result is a unique, often one of a kind project, regardless of the painting that you put on it. However, it often does require a bit of work to get the piece ready for the painting, and this preparation is very important to not only the end result but also the longevity and durability of the piece.

OLD TIN: Old tin may have an accumulation of rust, dirt and grease. This must be removed as much as possible. The initial removal of dirt can be done with a wire brush or a kitchen scrubby. Use of water is not always advisable, especially if the project is not to be painted immediately, as the water can actually add to the rust buildup. Cleaning products can be used but may also add to the rust problem. Rust can never be completely eliminated, but as much as possible should be removed (An electric palm sander can sometimes prove valuable in a faster removal of dirt and rust.) Now the cleaned article can be wiped off with varsol or mineral spirits. This will also take care of any greasy residue, and prepare the piece for the priming. Remove or use masking tape on any handles or parts of your piece that you do not want painted. The primer should be and anti rust one....Tremclad, Rustoleum, and even the in house brands seem to work fine. Make sure that you are using a matte surface, as it is most difficult to paint on a shiny surface. (If you have a prepared surface that is shiny, it must be buffed down with steel wool and/or coated with a product such as JoSonja 's All Purpose Sealer.) I prefer to use two or three thin coats of spray paint, following the directions on the can..allowing the paint to dry between the layers. Let the surface dry. Often a coat of gesso provides a nice surface to paint on. It covers and prepares a piece that will create a slight absorption of paint, and provides a light background for your painting. Allow the Gesso to dry thoroughly. (Gesso is optional) Your project is now ready to trace the pattern on...and now ready to paint.

Preparation of Tin Ware: Old and New Tin
*Note: The preparation of new metal is very similar. Painting on new galvanized metal does produce a problem of it's own. The galvanized surface often is treated with a protective sealer that repels paint. A solution of muriatic acid and water, according to directions does remove this. This solution is highly toxic. Precautions such as ventilation and rubber gloves are a must. Some non-rusting surfaces such as stainless steel, or aluminum do not need the rust preventive paint..but rather an application of Jo Sonja 's All Purpose Sealer is enough. Allow to dry and proceed as above. Any Decorative Painting paint will do for the actual painting. The end painting should be sealed with water base varnish, brushed on, or a varethane (expect a bit of yellowing...and use outdoor variety if the project is to be displayed outside). A spray on surface is always fast and even. I personally like the Krylon brand, although there are other brands on the market that I am certain are just as good three coats are advisable, drying in between the coats. Sign your project and display it with pride and enjoy.

Additions to Kit Pastimes and Presents Original Designs by Pat Costantiello

The basic beginner's kit includes a selection of 8 to 12 paints, (I usually recommend in Accent Country Colours: Pueblo Red, Pennsylvania Clay, Pineneedle Green, Soft White, Soft Black, Golden Harvest, Chesapeake Blue, and Sweet Chocolate), a liner or fine scroller brush, # 3 round brush, 1/2" angle brush, and #4 flat brush, graphite paper, tracing paper, and water base varnish. As a beginner, you could also make these additions to your basic kit:
*A basket or a tote
*pen
*pencil
*notepad
*Q-Tips
*round toothpicks
*dollar store sponges
*pillowcase and or large bath towel
*ruler
*old toothbrush
*white styrofoam trays, and or plates
*white ceramic tile or plates
*old craft brushes
*hardware foam brush
*old mug or container for brushes
*masking (or painters) tape or scotch tape
*sandpaper (220 grit or finer)
*fine steel wool
*Minwax stain (the kind with no finish) Early American or lighter shade)